I used many different lishis daily, both residential and auto. I have found his method of picking of Even then Odd isn’t the best way. I found, just like what he does on SPP, it’s to find the next binding pin/wafer works better. So I personally work my way through all the pins, both the odd and even, not doing all the Even, then the Odd. Also the amount of pressure on the turning bar is critical, some lock types require more pressure, when others require very little pressure, just like all the other locks he picks. There are a few of the locks/lishi that actually do best when picked all Even, then all the Odd, but not the Ford FO38 lishi. The Honda HU66 lishi will require you to pick all the Even first, the the Odd, which turns the Lishi about 30 degrees, then you have to pick the Even again to fully turn the lock and only then can you read the wafers. You must repick the lock again to turn it back to the neutral position. He went so fast on reading the wafer heights I think he actually misread the true key bittings, but I think he was very close. As far as the ignition key, which in this case uses wafers 7 and 8, with a proper app you can put in the known door lock wafers (1-6) and it will fill in what 7 and 8 could be, for the ignition. I use InstaCode to fill in the unknown wafers to make a fully working key, for both door and ignition. Since the Ford locks only use 8 wafers the lishi can also pick the ignition lock, however, like the Toyota 10 cut keys, the lishi only has (depending on year, make and model of Toyota, it could be one of several lishi types) wafer 3-10, so it can only pick door locks, not the ignition. You would have to use an app to fill in the unknown wafers for a fully working key. Both LLP and Bonsai Bill are my “go to” on ILclass videos for locks, however there are other people that use lishis on a daily basis that explains how to use a lishi much better than this video. A critical point is that if the lishi has ANY BOUNCE, LEAVE IT ALONE, and find the next binding wafer. Just like oversetting a lock using SSP, you can pick the wrong wafer in the wrong order and you would never be able to pick the lock. Usually when you get to a point where every pin has bounce to it, and nothing is binding, then you picked the wrong pin at the wrong point, and you can never pick it, you just have to reset and start over.
This video! I draw these damn things up in CAD for manufacturing. I knew they were used for locks in some way or another, but I didn't know the exact application. Thanks for the video!
There's only one Locksmith around my area that I will use..My 2005 F-150 was stolen about 10 years back and it was recovered without the keys, of course. I call this guy that I'd heard about to come out and make me a key, and I was shocked at how fast he was. He put a blank in the door, turned it, pulled it out and put in his cutter, made cuts, then repeated. He did the same thing with the ignition..usually the locksmiths I've used end up pulling the ignition out or something crazy. I've just never seen anyone do it that fast..
Imagine the damage if one criminal gets on of these for some very common car (e.g. Ford Focus) and goes to collect all valuables from any parked cars overnight. However, the only real fix is to get better locks in cars, not to withold the information about the vulnerabilities.
every time a locksmith is called to open a car they just come with a hanger or whatnot. This would be really cool if they had one of these and could cut a key right there for you. Then again a lot of people would be like 'yeah, that is my Lamborghini, yep, can you make a key for it?'
As someone who uses these daily-it looks like your reading of the lock is incorrect. You read the wafers/ bitting by putting gentle pressure bottoming out the springs without flexing the tool. Reading the wafers before the springs flex down and bottom out puts you 1 cut depth away on each cut. It looks like you are not pushing the lever down until full stop before reading the bitting here.
hello from Australia , (I just had a pretty Interesting idea (with Elon Musks Array of Low orbit Satellites, with highest definition SIGINT and photography, xRay , could someone with. Clearance to the System , (See anyone’s Keys from heavens Above , and cut a. Key , or even look at the lock , in the door and see the bidding ?
I have seen these before. I don't own any as it is price prohibitive for someone who is no longer in the locksmith business (just sport). But the only thing that changes between locks is the printed guide. I have been sorely tempted to create one of these with an interchangeable guide.
This tool tickles me, because it is the precise and glorious opposite of Chinesium. It's a well made tool, works as advertised, and the company is proud of its being Chinese made. Thank you for posting this.
Of course, LPL has secret weapon picks that we haven't seen before. Of course, he has the entire collection of these picks so that no car lock can stop him.
this video is the first to give me a real understanding of what is meant by 'binding', 'set', 'loose', and 'click out of' (perhaps there were earlier videos that explained that, but I haven't seen them)
I use the high security ones daily considering there are acureaders and ez readers that don’t first require picking for older model vehicles to acquire key codes to generate keys. A reach tool is typically all you need for a car door unlocking. Lishis are too expensive.
It occurs to me that the reason the door lock may not have all the wafers is specifically to deny the exact cut of the key needed to start the automobile to someone who comes along to the door with one of these tools and a pen.
I have a few of these tools as I’m a roadside breakdown mechanic. Great for members whose keys are locked in their car or even children for that matter!
Would love to see the few non-car ones on covert instruments. I've seen the car ones available for sale but eg the LW4/LW5 ones seem much harder to get a hold of
The question I have is... Why are you using a Lishi! You are the lockpicking lawyer. You can pick faster with a toothpick and paperclip than with the tool!